Capri and the Blue Grotto, Italy
GO. We visited Capri as part of our Summer holidays - taking a day trip from Pompeii. The first thing to say is that it’s not quite as easy as it looks - but is perfectly doable in a day from anywhere on the Naples coast by using public transport. You could of course book your own private trip with a boat charter company - but will pay the premium for this. We got the train to Sorrento - and then the Alilauro ferry across to Capri. These ferries run every half hour or so and take about 20 minutes. With a little cafe on board selling incredibly strong coffee, they were perfect for the short hop across. There are other options (Laser, SNAV, Carremar), and to be honest they all looked much of a muchness. We booked a ticket in advance but you can get them at the dock - it may be worth booking ahead in peak season, and we were able to jump on an earlier ferry across so they don’t stick to the ticket time if there’s space available on a different one.
STAY. There was no staying necessary here - probably for the best given the super high price of accommodation on Capri island. We were staying in Pompeii for this whole trip at the fantastic O Sole Mio accommodation. Staying in Pompeii was great, as after the crowds visiting the ruin go back to their hotels in Naples, Sorrento and other towns, Pompeii itself turns back into a relaxed Italian town with restaurants, bars and pleasant walks in the evening sun.
EAT. We didn’t have much time to eat on Capri - or need it having had a big breakfast and a snack on the ferry - however we planned to have lunch and accepted it would cost! In the end we ate at Donna Rachele Pizzeria in Capri town on top of the hill. This worked out around 60 Euros for Pizzas and drinks. The thing to watch out for in Capri is service charge (you can’t avoid it - accept that everywhere adds 2-3 euros per person to the bill), and really expensive drinks. Pizzas were 15-18 Euros each so we shared two, which was more than enough. Other than this we grabbed an ice cream from a place on the main square which was fine - nothing out of this world.
DO. The highlight, and main reason for the visit to Capri, was to go to the Blue Grotto. There are two companies that run boat trips to the Grotto - Motoscafisti and Laser Capri. Both charge the same price (24 Euros at time of writing) and you get a 30 minute or so boat ride and then a stop at the Blue Grotto. Be aware that there can be large queues to get in, and you may be sat on a boat, bobbing, in the blazing sun for this time. We used Motoscafisti (pre booked tickets), and they had drinks for sale on the boat. 5 Euros a beer seemed fine, even though it probably wasn’t the most appropriate drink for the situation!
The boat drivers seemed quite good at keeping some sort of order for the queue, and small rowing boats come in and out constantly to ferry passengers into the Grotto. It costs 18 Euros for entry to the Grotto once you are there, which is paid to the floating entry boat as you go in. We got a discount for a child of 6 Euros. The small rowing boats normally take one or two parties at a time - they fit about 6 people in. You’ll then be squeezed, squashed, serenaded and stunned by the 2-3 minute journey into the amazing natural cave. Our guide was knowledgable, friendly and did the job with a bit of humour - given that he probably did that 50 times a day. The guides will always ask for a tip which we gave - we have no idea how they split the entry price so it is always good to give something extra for what is quite a demanding and sweaty job!
It is fair to say that the Blue Gotto is a once in a lifetime experience. Some will argue that it is an overpriced racket - however value is what you make of it and we throughly enjoyed the experience and it has made family memories that will last a lifetime.
When we returned to the port we got the funicular up to main Capri town on top of the hill. Tickets for this need to be bought from an office a little further down to the left as you look at the sea. It’s a cool way to get up the hill - and walking down is probably preferable to up. However, we bought a return ticket!
Capri town on top of the hill is a very busy tourist magnet, with pricey shops, bars and restaurants. It’s a nice place to walk around but we’d recommend heading back away from the Main Street and exploring some of the nooks and crannies - look up, down and around you to see the unique architecture.
Trip Date: August 2024.